If you’re feeling sad, blue, sorry for yourself – go to Ljubljana (the spelling is under discussion) but it’s in Slovenia – go downtown across the river find  and sit at an outside table at a place called Jaznu na plac.  If it’s raining feel even more sorry for yourself – but still sit outside.  Smoke cigarettes (Gauloise, Players, some foul European brand that smells like burning horse hair) order wine – I say red, R says white.  Order two glasses.  Then order the pasta with cheese or the vegetable stew.  Become giddy as you eat (you’ll wait a bit before it arrives) because it is like being in Nona’s arms.  Both dishes are creamy and rich without being cloying – they seem to be what macaroni and cheese and potato soup were before they became as we know them at home.  And then eat the little piece of cake they give you – just because you stopped to eat at their restaurant.  Order another glass of wine.  Sit there – in the rain, in the wind, in the cold.  But sit there.  It is beyond comfort moving into the world of bliss.

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